Why Choose Wood and How To Do It
by: Sarah Miller
Wood, as a durable material, does more good than just staying in our rainforests and providing homes for the animals in the wild. Wood provides lumber that is used for building homes and installation; hobbies such as sculpting and making furniture and a whole lot more. Techniques involving with woodworking as an art are carving, sawing, sanding, painting, laminating and finishing. So why choose wood? Lumber is readily available and it's a replaceable resource which can figure into plenty of resale value. This material never goes out of style. Some materials like vinyl may be pretty and are prominent on the market; however it is costly and lacks artistic detail. Using metal would mean having lack of strength causing it to dent, and in time it may rust.
Wood, as a choice, offers a sophisticated and personal look. Each section is as exclusive as ones fingerprints. Each variety has a diverse feel and a clear-cut personality. From an entirely aesthetic point of view, nothing matches the elegance and appeal that wood offers. Synthetic materials mimic wood, but they can only try. How can the quality, intensity and beauty be captured?
Unprocessed, untreated, natural or organic wood has massive ecological benefits against building materials that exist today. Wood is a hundred percent biodegradable, it functions as an excellent insulator, it is easier to process and uses a reduced amount of energy to manage than does steel, aluminum, concrete or plastic.
Many high class efficient construction techniques exist today. Conventionally, the use of wood framing isn't the most efficient in house production. Although it is undeniable that it has certain advantages. Constructing homes using wood is also inexpensive and cost-effective. What's more is that experienced contractors aren't difficult to find when building framed walls.
In choosing the right flooring for a house, would you rather choose carpet, tile or wood? What are the advantages of having carpet? Sure it is slip resistant, comes in beautiful colors, and has a nice feel on the toes. Carpet may be all that but it can cause allergies especially with children. Given its texture, it traps in bacteria, dust and mold. Tile is easy to clean, but it can have a cold feel when walking barefoot. Hardwood is pretty easy to maintain and can cut down the number of allergy causing particles inside the home. Stepping on to any flooring made out of wood will make you appreciate the welcoming tones and shades.
Using wood isn't the only thing there is. The most important part is how to choose the material carefully for the purpose of protecting it from termites and from rotting. Outdoor decks or those used for landscaping are mostly unprotected and are housed by termites and therefore will decay. There are types of woods that are naturally resistant. These types include the cedar, cyprus and redwood. Problems with pest infestation is the result of a wood with soil contact. Treated wood made of composite materials is advisable when constructing wooden decks or porches or anything that may come in contact with soil. There are lumbers that are pressure-treated and are very much resistant to termites, other insects and rotting. They are processed with a sequence of pressure cycles forcing the wood preservative deep into the pores of the wood, therefore developing a chemical barricade against insects and decay.
There is available treated wood that has been observed to be successful with its performance. Its durability depends on its location and its use. The use of treated wood is determined by the retention of the wood, or the quantity of wood preservative placed. The lowest retention property (0.15 plus water repellant) mostly are used for gazebos, fence boards, hand rails, trellises, and decks. Retention property of 0.25 is used for trim and fascia, framing, flooring and sill plates. A retention property of 0.40 is mostly used with deck fence posts, deck support posts, and landscaping. Lastly, retention property of 0.60 is used for making permanent wood foundation and building poles.
About The Author
The above article was written by Sarah Miller on behalf of a buzzing online Home Improvement community where homeowners easily and painlessly find the right contractor for their home improvement projects and in turn, contractors can find the right Home Improvement Leads! Also check out the Quote City Blog for more related Home Improvement Articles and Ideas.
Showing posts with label wood. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wood. Show all posts
Tuesday, December 19, 2006
Wednesday, December 06, 2006
Getting The Best Out Of Your Wooden Floors
Getting The Best Out Of Your Wooden Floors
by: Centaur International
Wooden floors look great in any room in the house, but to keep them looking good for many years, it’s important to know how to look after them properly.
• Try to put very hardwood floors where children and pets are likely to be, as these are extremely durable and will be able to withstand wear and tear better
• Remove spills promptly using a soft cloth and recommended cleaning products
• Keep pets’ nails trimmed, and paws clean and free of dirt, gravel, grease, oil, and stains
• Sweep or vacuum regularly, since built-up grit can damage the surface of the wood. The vacuum head must be a brush or felt type and make sure that the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the finish
• Furniture can dent and mark wooden floors, so place protective pads beneath furniture legs and feet to reduce scratches
• Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on the wood floor
• Exposure to the sun and its UV rays accelerates the oxidation and aging of wood and fabrics. This causes the wood to change colour. Therefore, it's a good idea to rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so that the floor ages evenly
• Use rugs in high traffic areas and pivot points, for example, stair landings and room entries, especially if you have a large family or indoor pets
• Make sure furniture casters are clean and operate properly
• Don't be afraid to sand your floor if it's damaged or badly worn. A good quality wooden floor will take sanding several times during its life.
The amount of wear and tear that your wooden floors get obviously depends on the size and lifestyle of your family, but by taking a few precautions and regularly cleaning the floors, you will keep your floors looking as beautiful as when they were first installed.
About The Author
Centaur International sell wooden floors made from South American hardwood. Visit their website now by clicking on Centaur International.
by: Centaur International
Wooden floors look great in any room in the house, but to keep them looking good for many years, it’s important to know how to look after them properly.
• Try to put very hardwood floors where children and pets are likely to be, as these are extremely durable and will be able to withstand wear and tear better
• Remove spills promptly using a soft cloth and recommended cleaning products
• Keep pets’ nails trimmed, and paws clean and free of dirt, gravel, grease, oil, and stains
• Sweep or vacuum regularly, since built-up grit can damage the surface of the wood. The vacuum head must be a brush or felt type and make sure that the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the finish
• Furniture can dent and mark wooden floors, so place protective pads beneath furniture legs and feet to reduce scratches
• Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on the wood floor
• Exposure to the sun and its UV rays accelerates the oxidation and aging of wood and fabrics. This causes the wood to change colour. Therefore, it's a good idea to rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so that the floor ages evenly
• Use rugs in high traffic areas and pivot points, for example, stair landings and room entries, especially if you have a large family or indoor pets
• Make sure furniture casters are clean and operate properly
• Don't be afraid to sand your floor if it's damaged or badly worn. A good quality wooden floor will take sanding several times during its life.
The amount of wear and tear that your wooden floors get obviously depends on the size and lifestyle of your family, but by taking a few precautions and regularly cleaning the floors, you will keep your floors looking as beautiful as when they were first installed.
About The Author
Centaur International sell wooden floors made from South American hardwood. Visit their website now by clicking on Centaur International.
Sunday, December 03, 2006
Know Your Wood Well
Know Your Wood Well
by: Sarika Kabra
Lost when it comes to wooden furniture? Can’t make out ebony from teak? Can’t decide between Amish Oak Furniture and Antique Mahogany Furniture? Here’s a ready guide to make you an expert at recognizing different woods, decide their finishes and know what they are best suited for. So now you can go ahead and buy your hickory coffee table set or the Amish Furniture Set you’ve been eyeing with complete confidence.
The woods that are used for furniture making fall into three categories: Hardwoods, Softwoods and Composites.
Even the term 'hardwood' or 'softwood' is deceptive. Hardwoods aren't necessarily harder, denser material. Softwood trees are evergreen trees while the hardwoods are got from deciduous trees.
Hardwoods are considered the highest quality and are the most expensive. Hardwood furniture is least likely to warp or bend. Softwoods are less expensive than hardwoods, but they require extra care and are less durable. Composites are manufactured and not grown and are the cheapest form of wood. Provided it’s affordable, you should always go for hardwood furniture. Here we will look at the properties of some of the common hardwoods:
Ash
Strength: Very strong. Not likely to split.
Color: White to light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and medium to coarse texture.
Uses: Secondary pieces in connection with Oak such as bentwood furniture, frames and veneers.
Beech
Strength: Very strong.
Color: Reddish brown with dark brown specks, slightly paler than that of birch.
Texture: Straight grain and coarse texture.
Uses: Bentwood furniture, framework of chairs, tables, and bedsteads, furniture joints etc.
Birch
Strength: Very strong.
Color: Pale yellowish brown color.
Texture: Fine grain and even texture. Works and finishes well.
Uses: It is used in the better kinds of low-priced furniture.
If polished or varnished, it looks like satinwood, but is darker, and by staining can be made to resemble Honduras mahogany.
Chestnut
Strength: Fairly strong. It is light, elastic and very durable.
Color: Grey to white. Looks like white oak.
Texture: Coarse grains and texture.
Uses: Large-scale infestation has depleted the availability.
Ebony
Strength: Heavy and strong. High decay resistance but is brittle.
Color: Deep black color.
Texture: Straight or wavy grain with a fine even texture.
Uses: Luxury furniture, carving, musical instrument parts, primary pieces and inlay.
It is very expensive so Pear and other woods dyed black are often substituted for it.
Mahogany
Strength: Very strong. Easy to work.
Color: Reddish brown to dark red.
Texture: Interlocked or straight grain, often with a ribbon figure, and a moderately coarse texture. Excellent finishing qualities.
Uses: Tables, chairs, carved pieces, cabinetry, high class joinery, interior trim, boat building, vehicle bodies, paneling, plywood, and decorative veneers.
As its value is so great, it is generally veneered on to some less valuable wood. The heaviest mahogany is generally the best.
Maple
Strength: Very strong and hard. Difficult to work with. High resistance to abrasion, indentation, and shock.
Color: White to reddish yellow.
Texture: Straight or bird’s-eye grain and fine texture.
Uses: Furniture, flooring, cutting surfaces, cabinets, decorative woodwork, musical instruments, bowling pins and utensils
Oak
Strength: Heavy and strong.
Color: White to light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and medium to coarse texture. Finishes well.
Uses: Primary pieces which are not carved, joinery, turning and veneer.
Rosewood
Strength: Very strong and hard.
Color: Dark, with some curl. Purple to black.
Texture: Straight grain, medium texture and streaked figure.
Uses: Furniture, cabinetry, paneling, mathematical instruments, brush backs, inlay, sculpture, boat construction, hammer heads, and decorative flooring.
Satinwood
Strength: Very hard and strong.
Color: Orange to golden brown.
Texture: Striped or interlocked grain and fine texture. Finishes well.
Uses: Furniture, cabinets, inlay, joinery and turning.
Walnut
Strength: Strong and durable. Less inclined to warp.
Color: Dark brown to purple and black.
Texture: Straight grain and medium to coarse texture.
Uses: Primary pieces, tables, chairs, cabinets, drawers, joinery, turning and veneer.
Alder
Strength: Very strong. Easily carved and finished.
Color: Yellow to light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and even texture.
Uses: Turnery and primary pieces.
Cherry
Strength: Strong and hard. Easy to work.
Color: Red brown to red.
Texture: Straight grain and fine texture.
Uses: Primary pieces and turnery.
Elm
Strength: Very strong.
Color: Light reddish brown.
Texture: Straight or interlocked grain and coarse texture.
Uses: Furniture frames and secondary pieces.
Hickory
Strength: Very hard and strong. Difficult to work with.
Color: Sapwood is yellow white and heartwood is red brown.
Texture: Straight to wavy grain and coarse texture. Average finishing.
Uses: Bentwood furniture and rustic furniture.
Teak
Strength: Moderately strong. Low stiffness and shock resistance. Moderate bending strength.
Color: Yellow brown to dark brown.
Texture: Straight to wavy grain with coarse, uneven texture and rich figuring.
Uses: Indoor or outdoor furniture, joinery, turning, and veneer.
Yellow Poplar
Strength: Soft and light. Easy to work and finish.
Color: Sapwood is white, heartwood is greenish brown.
Texture: Straight grain and fine texture.
Uses: Carved members, joinery and smaller pieces.
For more information visit: Amish Furniture Home
About The Author
Sarika Kabra is an expert in the field of interior design and home improvement.
Amish Furniture Home
by: Sarika Kabra
Lost when it comes to wooden furniture? Can’t make out ebony from teak? Can’t decide between Amish Oak Furniture and Antique Mahogany Furniture? Here’s a ready guide to make you an expert at recognizing different woods, decide their finishes and know what they are best suited for. So now you can go ahead and buy your hickory coffee table set or the Amish Furniture Set you’ve been eyeing with complete confidence.
The woods that are used for furniture making fall into three categories: Hardwoods, Softwoods and Composites.
Even the term 'hardwood' or 'softwood' is deceptive. Hardwoods aren't necessarily harder, denser material. Softwood trees are evergreen trees while the hardwoods are got from deciduous trees.
Hardwoods are considered the highest quality and are the most expensive. Hardwood furniture is least likely to warp or bend. Softwoods are less expensive than hardwoods, but they require extra care and are less durable. Composites are manufactured and not grown and are the cheapest form of wood. Provided it’s affordable, you should always go for hardwood furniture. Here we will look at the properties of some of the common hardwoods:
Ash
Strength: Very strong. Not likely to split.
Color: White to light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and medium to coarse texture.
Uses: Secondary pieces in connection with Oak such as bentwood furniture, frames and veneers.
Beech
Strength: Very strong.
Color: Reddish brown with dark brown specks, slightly paler than that of birch.
Texture: Straight grain and coarse texture.
Uses: Bentwood furniture, framework of chairs, tables, and bedsteads, furniture joints etc.
Birch
Strength: Very strong.
Color: Pale yellowish brown color.
Texture: Fine grain and even texture. Works and finishes well.
Uses: It is used in the better kinds of low-priced furniture.
If polished or varnished, it looks like satinwood, but is darker, and by staining can be made to resemble Honduras mahogany.
Chestnut
Strength: Fairly strong. It is light, elastic and very durable.
Color: Grey to white. Looks like white oak.
Texture: Coarse grains and texture.
Uses: Large-scale infestation has depleted the availability.
Ebony
Strength: Heavy and strong. High decay resistance but is brittle.
Color: Deep black color.
Texture: Straight or wavy grain with a fine even texture.
Uses: Luxury furniture, carving, musical instrument parts, primary pieces and inlay.
It is very expensive so Pear and other woods dyed black are often substituted for it.
Mahogany
Strength: Very strong. Easy to work.
Color: Reddish brown to dark red.
Texture: Interlocked or straight grain, often with a ribbon figure, and a moderately coarse texture. Excellent finishing qualities.
Uses: Tables, chairs, carved pieces, cabinetry, high class joinery, interior trim, boat building, vehicle bodies, paneling, plywood, and decorative veneers.
As its value is so great, it is generally veneered on to some less valuable wood. The heaviest mahogany is generally the best.
Maple
Strength: Very strong and hard. Difficult to work with. High resistance to abrasion, indentation, and shock.
Color: White to reddish yellow.
Texture: Straight or bird’s-eye grain and fine texture.
Uses: Furniture, flooring, cutting surfaces, cabinets, decorative woodwork, musical instruments, bowling pins and utensils
Oak
Strength: Heavy and strong.
Color: White to light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and medium to coarse texture. Finishes well.
Uses: Primary pieces which are not carved, joinery, turning and veneer.
Rosewood
Strength: Very strong and hard.
Color: Dark, with some curl. Purple to black.
Texture: Straight grain, medium texture and streaked figure.
Uses: Furniture, cabinetry, paneling, mathematical instruments, brush backs, inlay, sculpture, boat construction, hammer heads, and decorative flooring.
Satinwood
Strength: Very hard and strong.
Color: Orange to golden brown.
Texture: Striped or interlocked grain and fine texture. Finishes well.
Uses: Furniture, cabinets, inlay, joinery and turning.
Walnut
Strength: Strong and durable. Less inclined to warp.
Color: Dark brown to purple and black.
Texture: Straight grain and medium to coarse texture.
Uses: Primary pieces, tables, chairs, cabinets, drawers, joinery, turning and veneer.
Alder
Strength: Very strong. Easily carved and finished.
Color: Yellow to light brown.
Texture: Straight grain and even texture.
Uses: Turnery and primary pieces.
Cherry
Strength: Strong and hard. Easy to work.
Color: Red brown to red.
Texture: Straight grain and fine texture.
Uses: Primary pieces and turnery.
Elm
Strength: Very strong.
Color: Light reddish brown.
Texture: Straight or interlocked grain and coarse texture.
Uses: Furniture frames and secondary pieces.
Hickory
Strength: Very hard and strong. Difficult to work with.
Color: Sapwood is yellow white and heartwood is red brown.
Texture: Straight to wavy grain and coarse texture. Average finishing.
Uses: Bentwood furniture and rustic furniture.
Teak
Strength: Moderately strong. Low stiffness and shock resistance. Moderate bending strength.
Color: Yellow brown to dark brown.
Texture: Straight to wavy grain with coarse, uneven texture and rich figuring.
Uses: Indoor or outdoor furniture, joinery, turning, and veneer.
Yellow Poplar
Strength: Soft and light. Easy to work and finish.
Color: Sapwood is white, heartwood is greenish brown.
Texture: Straight grain and fine texture.
Uses: Carved members, joinery and smaller pieces.
For more information visit: Amish Furniture Home
About The Author
Sarika Kabra is an expert in the field of interior design and home improvement.
Amish Furniture Home
Labels:
wood
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
Plywood Or Solid Wood – Be Aware
Plywood Or Solid Wood – Be Aware
by: Sarika Kabra
With the advent of newer options everyday, furniture buying has turned into a real chore. It has become really difficult to pick the best from the good enough. There is metal, glass and the good old wood. Even the types of wood, the qualities and strengths of each, the durability and moisture content can leave anyone terribly confused. In this situation, it is not wise to completely trust the salesperson at the local store. It is important that you do your basic homework before stepping out to buy wooden furniture. What the salesperson calls solid wood might just be plywood or particle board topped with a veneer. There is a big difference between Amish handcrafted furniture and plywood cabinets with oak doors.
Now one would wonder why so many furniture manufacturers use plywood instead of solid wood. Here is why. One reason why veneered panels of plywood are used extensively in furniture making is the cost of plywood versus solid wood. Plywood can be got at a small fraction of the cost of really good solid wood. The more expensive solid woods like cherry can cost as much as 3 to 4 times the price of sheet goods. Manufacturers have now begun calling their cheap plyboards and flakeboards as ‘Furniture Boards’ just to enhance its image.
Another reason is the cost of labor to machine and assemble solid panels versus just cutting a rectangle of plywood or veneering a panel. It is cheaper to work with sheet goods than solid lumber in terms of man hours spent to put the piece together. Many high end tabletops are simply veneered plyboards with a wood edge. Despite the difficulty, true Amish furniture is handcrafted out of solid wood and stained and finished to perfection to give you a piece to last a lifetime.
Another reason is that it is easy to get thousands of plywood sheets all looking identical. Solid wood by its nature would differ slightly in terms of grain, color, shade and moisture content. Cabinet parts, to many people, are more attractive in the form of matched veneer than the random color and grain matching of solids. Some people prefer the color variation of solids and the sometimes wild grain patterns and try to use these differences to make unique looking details.
In the USA, the Federal Trade Commission regulates the furniture industry and its sales pitches, etc. They have ruled on solid wood versus plywood and have indicated that there is a difference. That is, plywood is not solid wood. Specifically, The Federal Trade Commission has accepted for public comment a consent agreement with Taylor Woodcraft, Inc., settling charges that the company violated Section 5 of the FTC Act by deceptively claiming in promotional materials that its household furniture was constructed of solid maple or oak, when a number of its pieces contained some veneered exposed surfaces.
So while plywood may be cheaper and easier to construct, it is no match for solid wood furniture. It is more of an escape route towards convenience and higher profits. Beware of manufacturers who claim to be selling solid wood furniture but use plywood or particleboard for most of the internal parts. Do not feel shy to ask for details from the salesperson before buying a piece. Buy something only if you are absolutely sure. If the salesperson is not forthcoming with genuine information, it is time to check another store.
For more information visit: Amish Furniture Home
About The Author
Sarika Kabra is an expert in the field of interior design and home improvement techniques. She has vast experience in the manufacture of Amish Furniture.
For more information visit: Amish Furniture Home
by: Sarika Kabra
With the advent of newer options everyday, furniture buying has turned into a real chore. It has become really difficult to pick the best from the good enough. There is metal, glass and the good old wood. Even the types of wood, the qualities and strengths of each, the durability and moisture content can leave anyone terribly confused. In this situation, it is not wise to completely trust the salesperson at the local store. It is important that you do your basic homework before stepping out to buy wooden furniture. What the salesperson calls solid wood might just be plywood or particle board topped with a veneer. There is a big difference between Amish handcrafted furniture and plywood cabinets with oak doors.
Now one would wonder why so many furniture manufacturers use plywood instead of solid wood. Here is why. One reason why veneered panels of plywood are used extensively in furniture making is the cost of plywood versus solid wood. Plywood can be got at a small fraction of the cost of really good solid wood. The more expensive solid woods like cherry can cost as much as 3 to 4 times the price of sheet goods. Manufacturers have now begun calling their cheap plyboards and flakeboards as ‘Furniture Boards’ just to enhance its image.
Another reason is the cost of labor to machine and assemble solid panels versus just cutting a rectangle of plywood or veneering a panel. It is cheaper to work with sheet goods than solid lumber in terms of man hours spent to put the piece together. Many high end tabletops are simply veneered plyboards with a wood edge. Despite the difficulty, true Amish furniture is handcrafted out of solid wood and stained and finished to perfection to give you a piece to last a lifetime.
Another reason is that it is easy to get thousands of plywood sheets all looking identical. Solid wood by its nature would differ slightly in terms of grain, color, shade and moisture content. Cabinet parts, to many people, are more attractive in the form of matched veneer than the random color and grain matching of solids. Some people prefer the color variation of solids and the sometimes wild grain patterns and try to use these differences to make unique looking details.
In the USA, the Federal Trade Commission regulates the furniture industry and its sales pitches, etc. They have ruled on solid wood versus plywood and have indicated that there is a difference. That is, plywood is not solid wood. Specifically, The Federal Trade Commission has accepted for public comment a consent agreement with Taylor Woodcraft, Inc., settling charges that the company violated Section 5 of the FTC Act by deceptively claiming in promotional materials that its household furniture was constructed of solid maple or oak, when a number of its pieces contained some veneered exposed surfaces.
So while plywood may be cheaper and easier to construct, it is no match for solid wood furniture. It is more of an escape route towards convenience and higher profits. Beware of manufacturers who claim to be selling solid wood furniture but use plywood or particleboard for most of the internal parts. Do not feel shy to ask for details from the salesperson before buying a piece. Buy something only if you are absolutely sure. If the salesperson is not forthcoming with genuine information, it is time to check another store.
For more information visit: Amish Furniture Home
About The Author
Sarika Kabra is an expert in the field of interior design and home improvement techniques. She has vast experience in the manufacture of Amish Furniture.
For more information visit: Amish Furniture Home
Labels:
wood
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